Beauty & Belonging

In the foothills of the mountains I grew up in, I have built the perfect jewelry studio with space for casting, wax carving and enameling workspaces so I can execute all the designs that litter my sketchbooks, corkboards, sticky pads and brain.

My Collections are constantly evolving as I add new techniques, bolder colors and more intricate designs.

Sustainability & Respect

As the jewelry industry and its consumers learn more about the negative aspects of the gemstone and precious metals trade, all parties involved have recognized the need for change.

I do my very best to purchase only from trusted, ethical vendors. Each piece I make, whether an upcycled Heirloom Remake or a dangly pair of silver earrings, is thoughtfully and ethically sourced and created with recycled metals from Rio Grande, Stuller and David H. Fell; certified members of Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) and the SCS Recycled Content Certification.

All diamonds sold by Stuller comply with the World Diamond Council System of Warranties and the Kimberly Process and are CONFLICT FREE diamonds.

About the Artist:

Susan McDonough

I’ve always been drawn to jewelry. On people, in books, in lush glossy magazine advertising, in museums, especially museums! Any display that shows the underside and the inner workings draws my attention like a magnet. The MET likes to do this and I very much appreciate it. You can tell a lot about the construction of a piece from the back. I have learned almost as much from old jewelry boxes and museums as from books, universities, craft schools, and trade schools. And that is a lot!

I’ve been lucky enough to study with some of the very best Master Goldsmiths of our age and my desire to understand more keeps expanding. My innate curiosity; a passion for understanding the process of how historical pieces were made and why and for whom on what occasion, has taken me on an educational journey I could never have anticipated. But here I am, decades later, still fascinated with the process of jewelry.

A Passion for Granulation

In my studies, I became fascinated with the Etruscan process of Granulation. Granulation is an ancient process involving tiny spheres formed under heat through the scientific process of colloidal adhesion, precisely placed on a prepared surface and then fused with a mouth torch using my breath to control the heat of the flame.

Granulation is a very time-consuming and scientifically exacting process.

It begins with alloying 18k and 22k from 24K gold, creating and sorting the granules, and creating sheet using a hand-cranked rolling mill. Creating, cleaning and surface preparation of the components, fusing the bezels and granules, and joining components and findings with controlled fusing. Then it is ready for light sanding and polishing and a good thorough cleaning before setting the stones. Lots of doing.

I set the cabochons or faceted stones using a microscope, a hammer, and a specially-made setting tool using traditional time-tested techniques.

After a final polish, I like to give my pieces a brushed-down matte look with a brass brush and soap. This is one of my favorite finishes.